An anchor carriage is a pulley system attached to your kayak’s side, using existing anchor pad eyes or boiling and attaching pad eyes specifically to a carriage.
Although there are many different kinds of anchor trolleys on the market, they all have a few essential components that the system needs to work properly.
Anchor Trolley Layout
Let’s look at how each element of the kayak hull is organized to see how an anchor trolley functions.
The front and rear pad eyes should be approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) away from the bow and stern of the kayak and each eye should be parallel to the hull of the kayak. The eyes of the pad should be as high as possible on the hull, where the gunwale meets the kayak side.
Fore and Aft Pad Eyes and Pulleys
The front and back pad eye should be approximately 12 cm (30.5 cm) from the bow of the kayak, and the eye of each pad eye should be oriented in parallel to the hull. Where the gunwale meets the kayak side, the pad eyes should be as high as possible on the hull.
Either the front and back pulles are integrated into the pulleys, like the YakAttack Stealth Pulley, or separate pulleys like the YYST Kayak Anchor Trolley, which are connected with carabiners, depending on the trolley system you purchased. In either case, the units should be mounted in the same place and with the same orientation.
The guide pad eyes are the next set of pieces in your anchor chariot. These pad eyes can guide the rope and prevent it from sapping over the gunwale and into the kayak’s cockpit, as its name suggests.
The front guide should be placed around the back of the kayak bow with the highest point of the cleat facing the bow. As a result of this positioning, the anchor line can move freely and smoothly.
The aft guide should be placed at a 45° angle to the front of the kayak star, with the highest point of the cleat facing the back of the kayak. The orientation of this guide will once again allow pulleys to move freely while keeping the cable in the right position and away from the kayaker.
This brings us to the zigzag cleat, an important part of your pulley anchor system. H2o’s Zigzag Canoe Cleat is a good example.
A zigzag cleat is an upright plastic piece that allows you to put the cloth in place without tying knots. This is a crucial part of the anchor trolley because you can secure the anchor at any point along the length of the kayak. This allows you to adjust the wind, tide, current and casting direction of the anchor placement.
When the kayaker is sitting on the cockpit, the zigzag cleat is on the same side of the kayak and is within easy reach. The ribs should be perpendicular to the kayak’s length and as high as possible just underneath the gunwale.
The rope, which is threaded through your pulleys, pulls the anchor up and down the kayak length.
The section is threaded through the sticks and leads the eyes before it is knotted and fastened to one end of the anchor loop. If necessary, adjustments or replacements shall be made, so one end must be tied.
Anchor Pad Eye
The anchor line is attached to this pad eye, and allows us to make a common mistake by using their kayak anchor chariot.
The anchor loop is used to direct your anchor line from the arch to the star, but you should never directly attach your anchor line to this line. Thread your anchor line instead through the loop after attaching it to the eye of the anchor pad. This enables you to place the anchor line anywhere along the kayak while still easy access to the ties of the anchor line.
This is critical because you might be out of luck if you tie the anchor line up directly to the loop and then quickly cut the anchor. It is good to have this tie-down within reach whether it is because your kayaking is threatened by currents or because fish are wrapped around your anchor line.
Anchor Trolley System for Kayaking – Do I Need One?
If I’m not going to use my kayak anchor trolley, what’s the point of having it? That question is often asked. Many fishermen don’t know what an anchor trolley is or how it can help them. For reference, anchor trolleys are devises that allow anglers to gain control and maneuverability of their vessel, making it easy to continue to fish even in bad weather or rough water.
What are the Benefits of a Kayak Anchor Trolley System?
You’ll be able to set up a trolley and use it to stay in place while you go the direction you choose.
Using an anchor trolley, fishermen can fish into the wind and with the wind at their backs.
An anchor trolley can help you easily raise your anchor and gives you full control over the entire process when you are anchoring in any type of water.
Without getting out of your kayak, you can quickly maneuver in tight quarters by using a kayak anchor trolley system.
How is an Anchor Trolley Constructed?
Anchor trolleys are made up of three main parts. The set comes with two pulleys, a rope, and a ring. The rope is linked to the ring through the pulleys, which run through the pulleys. To anchor yourself, use the anchor rope to connect to the ring and to control where you’re positioned in the kayak. Bigger lakes and waterways are particularly conducive to losing your rod unless you employ the correct fishing practices.
Additionally, people like to add a floater near the anchor’s carabiner to allow for easy retrieval of anchor rope. If you’re forced to cut your anchor rope, your line can be retrieved using a floater, and it prevents having to reach into the water to retrieve the line.
There is a very useful trick that many people employ in which they add a float to the end of their anchor rope near the carabiner, allowing them to cut it, the float ensures that the rope doesn’t sink to the bottom of the water, allowing the person to move about in order to maneuver back into a safe spot from which they can then retrieve the anchor and begin anchoring again.
How to Install a YakGear Kayak Anchor Trolley
Have you purchased it yet? If not, you should get it. The Most Crucial Benefits of Employing a Trolley Anchor To find the installation instructions, scroll down and read them here! The installation video will guide you through the process step by step! Drill into your kayak after reading/watching all of the instructions!
Without Inside Access :
If you’re not able to get inside your kayak, drill a 3/8-inch hole between 9 and 12 inches from the bow and stern, and three inches down from the deck. Push the well nut into the hole and make sure the thread is flush with the nut.
The Pan Head screw that’s on the inside of the pulley must be secured with a Phillips screwdriver. After locating the wellnut and second screw position with the first hole in the pulley, drill the second hole with the 3/8-inch drill bit.
- Use another Pan Head screw to tighten it completely. When tightening the screws, you should make sure that they are both secure.
– On the inside: drill a 5/32-inch hole and use the Pan Head screws that came with the pulley, but on the outside, use the wellnuts instead. In both of the installation examples, the watertight seal is created by tightening the wellnut. Similarly, install the second pulley.
Pad Eye Installation:
Using the location of the pulleys as a guide, place one pad eye on the bow 3 inches below the bow pulley as a guide for the trolley line, then repeat with another pad eye on the stern 3 inches below the stern pulley. To keep the pads’ bottoms on your boat’s center line, you should make sure that they’re angled in that direction. The location’s symbol is . The rope will stay nice and taut if you use the technique of laying it down in the middle of the boat.
To set the drill holes, mark the locations using a sharpie and use the pad eyes as a guide.
To get into the hole from the inside, make 5/32” holes where the pad eyehole marks were put. Locate the tools you need: a pair of pliers and a screwdriver. Use them to tighten screws and locknuts.
You can put in rivets through a 3/16-inch hole in the wall using a drill and a rivet tool, if there is no access inside. Waterproof Silicone should be used in the absence of drilling near the pulley wellnuts.
The various parts of the boat may use a combination of installation methods: some areas may be fitted with inside access from outside while others will be installed with outside access.
Zig Zag Cleat Installation:
The zig-zag cleat must be located in a spot where you can easily access it while paddling. When the trolley is not in use, the zig zag cleat provides a locking mechanism for the correct positioning. This helps keep the position from being disrupted by changes in current or tide.
Mark where the self-tapping screws should go with the cleat after you’ve decided on a position. To seal the marks and the back of the cleat, you can use self-tapping screws with waterproof silicone.
When the cable is connected to the cleat’s tether and the trolley is not in use. When it comes to trolley placement, in order to stop the trolley’s travel, use the trolley line in the cleat.
Trolley Line Installation:
From bow to stern, run the line through the pulleys and through the pad eyes. The rope will be swinging from the ceiling because its loose ends are visible.
Also, tie the back of the trolley rope to your anchor tether (Triangle). Connect one end of your trolley line using a 5-6 loop fishing knot, as shown. This nonpermanent knot gives you the ability to change the length of the rope as it shrinks or stretches while wet, so leave 2-3 inches of extra rope after your knot. In order to adjust if your trolley rope tightens or loosens, you can simply untie your knot and retie it to change your rope’s length.
Attach the other end of your rope by wrapping it with shrink wrap and getting it out of the way. You can create your hog rings using a pair of pliers and loop the rope around a corner of the tether, which you will then crimp to the rope body to hold it in place (approximately 1.5″ down from the end). The loop that is in the triangle will create a constant bunny ear.
First, close the loop and then bring the shrink wrap up over the double width rope and the hog rings (after you slide it up from the single width rope). When shrink wrap shrinks in length, warm it with a hair dryer or lighter without burning the rope.
Then, finally, run your anchor rope through your Zig Zag Cleat, where it is next to your anchor so it is ready to be secured. The trolley can be secured with the Zig Zag Cleat when it’s not in use or when you want to stop it from moving. You can just lock the trolley’s wheel into the Zig Zag Cleat.
Methods of Anchoring A Kayak
The most popular ways to secure a kayak are with the quick-release and basic methods. Every method has its variations, but the concept is relatively straightforward:
Kayak Portage (Quick Release) You can use a release anchor if necessary, which can let you set anchor quickly and get released. To avoid oncoming boat traffic or rogue waves, this could prove useful. It’s also nice to fish with a group and have the option to help out with a catch or take a photo, without having to drag the anchor and reset it every time.
This is the best way for those who are new to kayaking because you can unwind quickly when you are uncomfortable at any time.
Kayak anchoring components with fast release functions A pick-up booy, an anchor bob and a floating rope length make up the setup. A floating rope runs back up to the kayak via the anchor trolley ring / karabiner, tied to a cleat, suspending the anchor roll below the pick-up boom. Just unwrap the floating cleat and let it go, if you must unwrap it at any time.
You are free of anchor now when the rope feeds back through the anchor trolley ring/karabiner. The anchor bobbin floats underneath the boot until securely retrieved or reconnected. Note: The floating rope must be knotted / fixed in order to prevent the book from sliding under pressure.
This method is simple to unanchor, but it’s a pain to adjust the amount of anchor line. If it was necessary to release more line you would have to pull in the booy and roll and release more line.
Kayak anchor reel You will need an anchor roller to store your anchor line to prevent tangles and to organize things on your kayak. You may simply twist your anchor line in very shallow water around a simple twist or empty cable spool, but you will in most cases have dozens of meters of cord under control!
Divers Reels make excellent anchor rollers because they are small and designed for underwater use. The 80m Dive Reel Beaver Osprey is popular in the United Kingdom and is ideal for fast-release systems because it has a counter-rigging mechanism that prevents line from coming from the reel when mounted.
Kayak Anchoring Line If you brought a dive bobbin to use as an anchor bobbin, it will probably already be spotted with cord. If not, a polypropylene cord or mouse line of 1.5 or 2mm can be used. This is sufficiently strong to hold even the most heavy kayaks in difficult conditions, but thin enough to cut through the water with little resistance and to be easy to anchor. Most shops sell this cord in 100 m or higher spools, and it is relatively cheap.
At the end of the line, tie a small karabiner to make your anchor and chain easier to clip.
A Kayak Buoy You need a boot large enough to keep you afloat in an adequate tide or in choppy waters. It should also be seen from afar if you have to paddle away. Check Up Buoys about the size of standard soccer are ideal.
Use about 4-5 meters of floating rescue rope Hi-Viz 8mm to set up anchor quickly. This means you can put the boot a few meters away from the kayak star and reduce the risk of tangles in your anchor line. It also has plenty of rope to aim for when the anchor is attached after being detached.