Kayak maintenance tips

Kayaks don’t require much maintenance in general, but a little upkeep will make your boat more enjoyable to use. It also improves the exterior’s and even the structure’s durability.

Interior cleaning

It is recommended that the interior (especially the cockpit) be rinsed after each use to remove sand, food debris, beach debris, and general trash, which helps to prevent mold and other contaminants from forming. A simple rinse with clean water usually suffices. Laying the kayak upside down on a sofa and emptying the cockpit with a hose is a simple way to accomplish this. The excess water and dirt in the cockpit can then be easily rinsed out. Using a damp cloth, wipe the inside of the splashboard.

Exterior cleaning

A simple rinse with water usually suffices. Soap can be used to remove water stains. Use a neutral solvent like rubbing alcohol to remove stubborn stains. For Carbon Light 2000, never use acetone, toluene, MEK, paint and varnish thinners, or ammonia-based cleaning agents.

Fine sandpaper can be used to remove rough spots. After each use, inspect the kayak for particularly deep cuts and make repairs as needed to avoid deterioration. Sand and other substances that could obstruct a good seal should be kept away from hatch covers and edges.

Fixtures for the deck

It’s a good idea to inspect the decking underlayment from time to time. Check that all nuts are securely fastened and that there is no unusual wear on the deck where the bolts are located.

Examine the ends of the shock cord that are attached to the fittings, as well as the cord itself, for signs of wear.

UV light can damage the nylon used to sheath the ripcord, and it will deteriorate over time. If that’s the case, it’s a simple matter of replacing it. The four-point self-rescue rope on the back of the cab must be kept in good working order.

Both ends of the boat’s carrying handles must be capable of supporting the boat’s weight. Make sure the rope is not tattered. They’re also simple to replace.

Repairing carbonite and the adhesives that should be used.

Carbon kayaks are simple to repair. The method chosen is determined by the severity of the damage. Methyl methacrylate is the main ingredient in the adhesives we recommend. Plastic welding is a common name for it, and it’s sold under a variety of brand names.

The most common solder is Devcon plastic solder, which can be found in most hardware stores.

Plastic solder from Permatex comes in two colors: cream and black.

Many hardware and home improvement stores carry JB Weld plastic solder.

Devcon plastic solder comes in 25-ml blister packs from Eddyline (ground delivery only). A Carbonlite Repair Kit, which includes Devcon Plastic Weld and the basic Carbonlite repair kit, is also available.

Carbonite and Modal Kayaks: Repairing Surface Damage The following procedures can be used to repair light to moderate surface damage to the decks and hulls of carbonite kayaks. These procedures begin with the simplest steps and progress to more complex and detailed procedures. Begin with the first item on the list and work your way through the list until you reach a satisfactory conclusion.

Use Meguiars #10 plastic polish, which is available at auto and marine supply stores. Then use Yacht Brite “Serious Shine,” a wax-like product (available in our store).

Apply a marine polish like 3M Finesse with an electric polishing pad on a drill press. If you’re happy with the polish, just use wax. Otherwise, go back to step 1.

Sand the wet area with 800-grit or 1200-grit paper, depending on the extent of the scratches. For heavier scratches, use 800-grit paper, while 1200-grit produces a finer finish. Go to step 2 now.

Allow the scratched area to dry after cleaning it.

Using a razor blade or a sharp knife, remove any lumps or debris.

Mix a small amount of Devcon plastic solder with a small amount of water and apply it to an area large enough to fill.

Stretch the gauze or plastic over the material with your fingers and smooth it out (if necessary). This will aid in the creation of a smooth surface. When everything is dry, remove it.

Allow time for curing (process within one hour, full strength is achieved after 24 hours).

Sand lightly with 400 grit sandpaper if necessary, then buff with a buffer or buffing compound.

It can be sprayed with a high-gloss acrylic spray paint if necessary. Even the tiniest scratches will be removed by the clear acrylic.

Details of the restoration Carbon fiber restoration, deep drawn restoration

The amount of water used to push the kayak against the pole causes this break. No one was hurt, and the kayak was back to its original condition in less than an hour.

We show you how to repair a thermoformed kayak in detail and with photos. It took less than an hour to complete this repair. The materials can be found at any major retailer or hardware store.

You’ll need the following items.

1) Devcon solder (plastic) This adhesive looks a lot like the one used to make Eddyline kayaks. This item can be found in the glue section of your local hardware store or big-box retailer. 2.

fiberglass cloth No. 2 At marine and auto parts stores, 2 to 3 inch wide fiberglass cloth is available; the material available from Eddyline’s online store is especially good because the sides of the cloth are seam sealed and will not tear.

  1. workbench made of cardboard 4. an adhesive spatula or applicator 5. craft paints (optional) Krylon Fusion acrylic spray paints can be used in small amounts when mixing Devcon plastic welding adhesive in highly visible repair areas (e.g., exterior). When mixing adhesives, a small amount of Krylon Fusion acrylic spray paint can be used.

  2. abrasives for finishing: 400, 800, and 1200 grit wet sandpaper


Isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol can be used to clean the kayak’s salvaged parts. Cover the area that needs to be fixed. Apply Devcon Plastic Weld to one side of the fiberglass strip and use a mat to spread it evenly throughout the area. Apply this tape to the inside of the damaged area, wet side down.

Wait one minute before applying Devcon Plastic Weld to the fiberglass tape’s exposed “dry side.” Cover the first repair with the second repair and repeat the process.

Rep the process, covering the first repair, until the interior repair is complete and the tape can be removed.

Make a cut with a Dremel or similar tool on the outside of the repair area. For the exterior repair, Devcon pigmented plastic solder can be used.

Before the excess adhesive hardens, remove it with a razor blade after filling the groove with Devcon plastic solder. Otherwise, wet sandpaper should be used to smooth out the finished restoration before polishing it.

Get back into the water

Is Carbonite difficult to work with?

Gelcoat is softer than carbonite (composite kayaks). Carbonite boats are less likely to scratch and scuff than fiberglass boats. Carbonite is more vulnerable to lightning strikes than fiberglass boats, which are susceptible to spider damage. The effects of loading and torsional bending are more debatable and personal injury-specific. Glass and carbonate repairs may be required in the event of a bad accident in the surf zone.

The damaged area should be cleaned and dried.

With a razor blade or knife, remove burrs and chips.

Fill the dents on the outside with enough adhesive to cover the damaged edge and fill the dents on the inside.

Apply the adhesive to the damaged edges as thinly as possible.

Re-align and press the edges together.

Tack until the adhesive is completely dry. If the glue has been squeezed out, use gloved fingers or a rag to smooth it out.

Place a small piece of gauze underneath the tape if you need to stick the glue on yourself. This will prevent the glue from sticking to the tape.

Using a rag and rubbing alcohol, remove any excess adhesive.

If it’s stable, move on to the next step right away; if it’s not, wait for the previous application to take effect (usually about 30 minutes) before continuing.

1 inch on each end, cut a piece of fiberglass tape (included) to cover the wound.

On a piece of wax paper or cardboard, mix an appropriate amount of adhesive and apply it with your fingers until the adhesive has penetrated the tape (if necessary, apply the adhesive to both sides of the tape).

After that, cover the area that has been damaged (or in some cases the inside of the boat). Hold it in place and push the air out from underneath with your fingers.

Allow time for the cure. Within an hour, the boat can usually be moved and treated.

Use the cutting and planing procedure described if cosmetic treatment is required.

Water leaks

Water leaks mostly happen in the following places unless the kayak has cracks: Seams, edges, hatch edges, bulkheads, slider housings, and fittings are all included in the price. Before leaving the factory, Edelen kayaks are put to the test in the water. Leaks can occur over time as a result of various stresses such as freezing and thawing, impacts, overtightening of vehicle fittings, and so on. Some procedures and suggestions are listed in the menu below.


Fill each section of the lawn or circle with 3 to 5 gallons of water on a dry day (one at a time). Roll or lift the kayak to push the water over the suspect area and watch where it flows or drips. It’s incredible how much water can accumulate and then vanish in just a few hours. Also, make sure there isn’t any water spilling from one compartment to the next. This indicates that the baffle is leaking. Remember that the baffle has a small opening in the center, so look for leaks in the surrounding area.

Repairing a leak

Because leaks almost never indicate a structural issue, a simple sealant like marine polyurethane sealant should suffice. Squeeze a small amount of sealant into the leak with your finger or a rag once you’ve found it. Ensure that any excess is wiped away. It will only clog the pores that the water passes through. If we have access to the problem, we usually seal on the inside; otherwise, we seal on the outside or both sides.

Hatch edge leaks

It’s best to seal from the bottom if the hatch rim is leaking. Apply a small amount of sealant to the gap between the rim’s edge and the kayak deck’s edge (such as marine polyurethane sealant). This is a convenient location that will not detract from the appearance of your kayak. Wipe away any excess.

Leaks in hull encasement

Seal the hull roll on the kayak’s outside. The shell opening is the point at which the shell connects to the kayak’s hull. If you’re not sure where the leak is coming from, press the joint together to seal it around the shell. Particular attention should be paid to the edges. Wipe away any excess.